oil: don't care what the manufacturer recommended

[navymm1swaw]

I can only assume that you have or had a 1000 or 1100. Question, what oil do you currently use or did use with positive outcome? I don't like hitting on things previously discussed, however, looking for fresh info.
I currently run Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w-40 with 10% Lucas oil. Who uses 20w-50 or SAE30 and what do you think? I need to adjust my valves and thought about running thicker oil just because of the age and mileage of my bike. BTW, have had no problem with the Lucas and clutch slipping.

Please, no wrong info here, just looking for facts from people running thicker oil in their Wings.

[CYBORG]

Rotella 10=40

[theburgundian]

I would post the same questions next week but you did it, thanks.
I use 10W40 too, but I'm not convinced : the gearbox is noisy and the engine makes some light metallic clinking sometimes.
So I thought going back to the 20W50 and I'm interested in someone's opinion too, thanks for replying!

[CYBORG]

I sometimes use 20-50, depending on the time of the year, and the temperature. However I prefer 10-40 in the 1200, because of the hydroloc lifters

[chewy999]

Can't give 'facts', just my humble opinion. I used the cheapest 10 - 40 branded oil, don't think you can go far wrong as long as you change it at the correct intervals including the filter. Use more expensive oil for my CB1300, but that is a modern high performance machine.

[navymm1swaw]

I have thought about 20-50 because the engine just doesn't sound as smooth. It could be my valves need adhusting, hasn't been done for 50,000 miles. I read that it is recommended every 8,000. I think switching to 20-50 is a band-aid for a real problem that might be in timing or carbs, however, I don't want to have the engine fail even after I adjust the valves and I think running 20-50 might help prolong the life of the motor. Has anyone ever used just straight 30 weight?

[navymm1swaw]

Chewy, what I meet by facts is someone's experience with testing or running thicker oil and the outcome whether good or bad. Thank you for your reply. Perhaps I am misusing "facts" and should use conclusive results instead.

[CYBORG]

bearing clearances, and clutch requirements, in the 1000 and 1100 engines require a detergent oil to keep things cleaned out, and an oil without friction modifiers. That is what will prolong the life of the engine.That and proper maintenance, such as carb sync, and valve adjustment. The "magic in a bottle" stuff rarely does as advertised. Money spent on the correct quality products, will also prolong the life, and in the long run, money well invested.

[chewy999]

No worries, but whatever I've used in the past, I've always used at least the manufacturers recommended viscosity. My understanding is that bikes are usually 10-40 as it can be easier to turn the engine over on start up. 20-50, especially in the cold, can be to thick and make starting harder, but wouldn't have thought it would do any harm to the engine.

[Mrirbic71]

bearing clearances, and clutch requirements, in the 1000 and 1100 engines require a detergent oil to keep things cleaned out, and an oil without friction modifiers. That is what will prolong the life of the engine.That and proper maintenance, such as carb sync, and valve adjustment. The "magic in a bottle" stuff rarely does as advertised. Money spent on the correct quality products, will also prolong the life, and in the long run, money well invested.

+1

[CYBORG]

No harm, but the starter clutch is the first victim of dirty, or over thick oil

[NCScooter]

Chewy, what I meet by facts is someone's experience with testing or running thicker oil and the outcome whether good or bad. Thank you for your reply. Perhaps I am misusing "facts" and should use conclusive results instead.

I'm not sure that anyone on here has run tests for a "conclusive result." Rotella T 15-40 meets JASO MA. Can't remember the exact anagram, but that is Japanese Motorcycle Manufacturers. Endorsement on the container along with a nice low price.

[mrtwowheel]

Castrol GTX 10W40, the original "motorcycle oil" in all of my bikes.

Scott

[Steve81GL1100]

I'm running Rotella 15W40 and using OEM Honda oil filters. During the initial run-in and sync'ing the carbs I ran whatever 10W40 I could get cheap, along with some Fram filters the PO gave me when I got the bike. Since I wasn't riding it, I wasn't concerned about clutch slippage. I also was changing the oil & filter about every hour of engine running. Once I got it ready to ride, I put the Rotella in and will use only OEM Honda filters from here on out. I don't think it's worth the dollar or two savings to buy non-Honda filters, and the dealer is close-by so it's easy to ride over and grab one or two. As for the Rotella, I work at Advance Auto Parts and our "regular" price is 17.99 for a gallon jug. It's frequently on sale for 13.99 a gallon, so I just get it when it's on sale. Can't miss.
As for the decision to use it, I figure some guys on here who are WAY more knowledgeable than me have been using it without issue for a long time, so who am I to argue? Also, I have a buddy who runs it in a couple of vintage Ford Cleveland engines that cost about 10 grand apiece to rebuild/modify, and if he trusts them to Rotella that's a good endorsement too

Steve

[navymm1swaw]

Blown motor= bad oil to use.

Smooth ride and long time using with little to no adverse problems=good oil to use.

Mainly, anyone use SAE30 or 20-50 for a long time and notice a better/smoother ride and quieter engine? Any bad problems, aside from previously mentioned starter problems?