Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

[MegaDan]

Maybe not quite un-pimp, but change. Yes, I have the nerve to change a BOTM winner.

The pros:
-BOTM winner.
- Very solid mechanically.
- I know how old the timing belts are (not old)
- Compression on this motor is super strong.
- ZERO RUST
- Already has a CDI ignition.

The Cons:
- Clutch cable is stretched and at max adjustment.
- The shift lever is slightly bent so it makes it awkward, but it still functions fine.
- Carbs are having an issue and it's running rich.
- Fuel gauge wiring needs reworked
- Tach lights are completely out.
- Needs some sort of oil separator/breather setup. Current one is just a filter on a hose and it drips oil on the back side of the motor.
- Headers are rusty and ugly.
- current exhaust leaks a little bit at the unions with the mufflers on both sides.
- Tires are very old (this is the main reason I haven't been riding it much)
- The seat, while decently comfortable in the cushion department, is not very comfortable on long rides, and does not hold you in at all. One hard throttle twist in a lower gear and you better hang on.
- Missing center stand.
- Kick stand is not long enough.

I've been gathering parts together for a while now to make a few changes. So, what am I changing? Its getting stripped to "super naked" status, and a complete upgrade of the front and rear suspension.

So far I have purchased: Corbin Seat (2 up style from flyin900 on here, thanks again!). Factory 75 rear fender in really good shape from e-bay recycler, Delkevic stainless exhaust, Hydraulic Clutch conversion (Member on here, found listing on ebay) VFR clutch master cylinder, 5/8 bore master cylinder, Progressive fork springs, Racetech Gold Valve emulators and adapters, Progressive 140/190 springs for rear shocks. Fork brace, 650 Savage front fender, EMGO Viper Cafe style quarter fairing, and I just ordered an Emgo "Superbike" handlebar, different grips, and bar end mirrors, used center stand from local bike recycler, used kick start lever (because I want it) and an aftermarket tail light and rear turn signals to mount to the factory fender.

Anyways....

If you saw my intro thread, or you know the bike, then you are familiar with it.

This is how she was before I started tearing into it, with the front Mutazu fairing already removed.

[MegaDan]

To get started, I went ahead and fully drained the fuel tank, lines, pump, and bowls of the carbs. I then proceeded to remove the rear fender, bags, bracket assembly, and seat(s) from the bike. Aside from some grit and grime it's all in really nice shape. About the only thing I ran into that was disappointing was that the brackets added to the rear struts on the frame to hold said seat, bags/bracket, and fender were welded to said struts and not bolted on. So I have to carefully cut away the welds and hopefully not cut into said fender struts. On a positive note, to my pleasant surprise, my rear wheel spokes and rim are just insanely dirty, but not a speck of rust to be found.







I would have gotten more done today, but with my new position at work I am pulling 60+ hours a week, and I only had today off to do all of my chores/obligations/life stuff. I plan to do a little more next weekend, hopefully get the brackets cut away, and if it's warm enough paint the bare metal I create doing so, and maybe start to pull the carbs. I also may look into some new hardware for the rear struts, because this thing is just washer stacks. I might take some stainless bar stock and make my own spacers just to clean up the look a bit.

[TNTbefree]

Looks like you are going to have with this one. Any chance you have a pic of the 500 you traded for her? Love to see that too. Will be following. Plans for exhaust?

[Brant]

The nerve, messing with a BOM. Aw don't worry about it. Its what we do, mess with wings and change things. What are you going to do with the old mufflers? I might be interested in them. I don't get to Omaha too much but every now and them. Maybe we might cross paths sometime.

[MegaDan]

Looks like you are going to have with this one. Any chance you have a pic of the 500 you traded for her? Love to see that too. Will be following. Plans for exhaust?

I don't have a pic of the 500 myself, it was my buddies car. Hey may have one posted somewhere that I can snag it from though. It wasn't anything too special. Fairly solid minus a teeny tiny bit of rust behind the rear wheels. Floors and the rest of the body was solid, just multi-colored and dented. It had all of the trim/bright work with it in boxes and the interior, while pretty faded, was complete. Just an old straight 6 with a 3 on the tree.

The nerve, messing with a BOM. Aw don't worry about it. Its what we do, mess with wings and change things. What are you going to do with the old mufflers? I might be interested in them. I don't get to Omaha too much but every now and them. Maybe we might cross paths sometime.

Who knows, maybe I can eventually make it another BOM in it's new form when I get done with it to redeem my horrible deeds

As far as the old mufflers go, wingrider actually laid first dibs on them a couple of months ago when I bought my Delkevic exhaust for it.

[MegaDan]

Well, since photobucket is having issues right now, I'll just attach a picture.

Loose fitted the exhaust and seat with the little bit of time I had today. Seat needs to come down about another half an inch to bolt on to the rear strut. I was wondering if I could get it to mount with the added brackets still in place, but no go. Exhaust is just loosely bolted up and zip tied. I need to get some new hardware for the rear mounts and I want to put in some new exhaust studs and nuts since the old ones are old and a bit rusty. I also loose fitted it all so I can have an easier time installing my center stand once It dries from painting it with some Eastwood chassis black that I had sitting around.

Overall I am liking the look. A part of me almost wants to just run with some sort of splash guard under the seat and no rear fender.

[MegaDan]

I finally got a chance to start doing a little more work. Have it mostly stripped down so I can access the carbs. Test fitting a Suzuki Savage front fender that I picked up for 15 bucks to see what might be involved in making it work. Unsure at this time if I want to bother or just run the current fender that I have.

I honestly am unsure if I am entirely dealing with a carb issue at this point. I am still going to pull them off and inspect them, but she's pretty clean. Plugs do show signs of being rich, but it could simply be a tuning or jet issue. I am now wondering if my off and on running issues aren't ignition related. Time to do a little more poking around.

[ole496]

Ah man, I loved that bike...sad to see it go. It was one of my favorite builds. But, I can't wait to see where it goes from here.

[MegaDan]

I'm not changing it that much TBH. Most of the changes are out back, the rest of it will just be small adjustments to suit a look I like more.

[MegaDan]

Got rolling on a bunch of small projects all related to eachother. New brake master and started my hydraulic clutch conversion. Need to drill the bars and I am waiting on a new LH control setup to finish that bit of business.

I may need new shorter throttle cables if anybody knows a good place to order custom ones from. I could probably make the current ones work, but I may as well get better ones while I am here.

Pulling the carbs now to give them a looksie and see if there is anything amiss or needs cleaned/tweaked. Good way to spend my weekend I think.

[flyin900]

Interested in the hydraulic clutch conversion, as in does it require a rear case change off a GL1200 or a late GL1100 model. I am familiar with the GL1200 clutch since I have one of those bikes, yet I didn't think the rear cases are compatible?

Your gauges are in excellent shape, especially the tack still showing the redline in non faded red.

I will follow the build with interest too.

[Brant]

The hydro clutch conversion requires the rear case off a 84 1200. I believe that is the only year of hydro clutch that will swap back. If I am wrong someone will correct me.

[MegaDan]

Interested in the hydraulic clutch conversion, as in does it require a rear case change off a GL1200 or a late GL1100 model. I am familiar with the GL1200 clutch since I have one of those bikes, yet I didn't think the rear cases are compatible?

Your gauges are in excellent shape, especially the tack still showing the redline in non faded red.

I will follow the build with interest too.

The hydro clutch conversion requires the rear case off a 84 1200. I believe that is the only year of hydro clutch that will swap back. If I am wrong someone will correct me.

I bought a complete setup off of a member here (Sunnbobb) that comes with the cover, slave cylinder, complete hose and banjo bolts, and correct length pushrod to do my conversion. I then bought the brake and clutch master setup as a pair separately. Once my EBC clutch discs get here I will get rolling on finishing the conversion, but it's pretty bolt on and go. It even utlizes the 1000 clutch setup as is, which is why I decided to upgrade to the EBC discs.

Link to his post on here where I discovered it http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... ch#p675718

I'm not sure if he has any still, but you can always shoot him a message and find out. If you are interested in putting together your own Hydraulic setup though, there is a 1984 GL1200 clutch cover on ebay right now.


I got the carbs out and did a quick inspection. I have good news. No rebuild needed here, just some cleaning. Two of the slides stick and are gummed up. Bowls, floats, jets, and passages are all squeaky clean. The bowl gaskets are even still nice and pliable and came off with ease. These were definitely rebuilt recently. Any recommendations for keeping them from sticking again? I have some MMO I can use to oil everything up with after I clean them up, or should I consider something else?

[flyin900]

I run some two stroke oil in every tank of gas usually about 3 oz per tank. I just happen to have lots of the stuff from opportunity buys from product discontinued sales. The MMO is another good choice too, as these oils mixed into the gas help keep the carbs lubed as they are operated.

[MegaDan]

Well, I got the carbs all cleaned up and used a little MMO on the slide surfaces for now. They all move nice and free and don't bind at all so yay. I don't have to spend $150 on rebuilding them, which is good, because I made a new discovery that is going to cost me $150... Water pump is leaking out of the weep hole.

Since I have to pull the radiator, I may as well have it cleaned and tested as well. I think it might be worth just replacing all of the rubber hoses, seals, and gaskets on the cooling system since I have the carbs off the bike and everything is easily accessible. Annoying, but I am sort of glad I caught it now.