1984 GL1200 standard to cafe build

[macvit7906]

Hi All!

New here. I've been restoring an old neglected GL1200. So far I have dropped and restored the engine, Basically every single engine component, and the carbs.

I'm having the frame and a bunch of parts powder coated now. I have a ton of ideas about how I want the finished product to look but as always I have a ton of questions. Hopefully all of you experience NGW members can give me some good advice.

1. The seat. what is the best approach here to get a good looking/fitting cafe style seat on a GL1200? I'm thinking about starting with the stock Seat pan and having a custom seat built on top of that.

2. The air suspension. THIS HAS TO GO. any recommendations on front and rear spring suspension? what does the air to spring front fork conversion entail?

3. the wiring. The wiring on these things was UGLY. I'm going to start from scratch here and go for a more modern wiring set up. any recommendations here?

Thanks!

[5speed]

welcome to the site. we love pictures of builds here.
check this thread for a seat idea. One of our members in Finland used the stock pan and had his seat built around it.

https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 16&t=60118
Also..if you look at the bottom of the page you will see other threads on 1200's that may have some info.

[macvit7906]

Pictures are coming!

[Buli]

Like u can see in my topic ( look 5 speed replay) it can be made of original pan. my opinion is that it requires modification . look these too http://www.motorcycleseatsdirect.com/ho ... -pan-4213/ http://www.texavina.com/gl1200-goldwing-1980s/.

It is not easyest bike to make it look good so prepare to make some modifications to the tank or use early gl 1000/1100 tank ( shelter) if u are interested of z 1300 tank let me know

[Shadowjack]

There's a big spring inside the front fork tubes. The air suspension is just a little fine tuner; you can run without any pressure. There's a bridge tube and collar arrangement between the fork tubes to balance the air pressure. The tubes are drilled behind the collar. You can remove all that, but you'd have to plug the holes. They're about 1/8 inch.
I believe, but have not actually checked, that VF1000s used the same length rear shocks without the air suspension.

[macvit7906]

Like u can see in my topic ( look 5 speed replay) it can be made of original pan. my opinion is that it requires modification . look these too http://www.motorcycleseatsdirect.com/ho ... -pan-4213/ http://www.texavina.com/gl1200-goldwing-1980s/.

It is not easyest bike to make it look good so prepare to make some modifications to the tank or use early gl 1000/1100 tank ( shelter) if u are interested of z 1300 tank let me know

I got inspiration from your bike., It looks great. I like your seat much better than those pre-made seats. So I think I will have a seat made with original seat pan.

One change I would want - is lower the front about 1 inch and put straight bars on it. Any idea how to lower front forks 1 inch? I will be replacing all of the gauges with 1 gauge.

[Lucien Harpress]

First off, not knowing anything, if your bike started life as a Standard 1200, depending on what parts you have left over you're not going to use, you may be able to pay for a decent chunk of some custom fabrication costs.

Lots of 1200 Standard-specific parts (Headlight ears, front blinker mounts, front plastic trim, both radiator and tank, rear fender, rear grab bar) almost never come up, and can be sold for a decent amount.

As far as air suspension- I can't image rear shock replacements would be too hard. As for the fronts, you may get away with leaving the stock forks. You CAN add air, but don't really need it. And unless you want to go with some type of springer/vastly different visually front end, you're not going to gain much. Something to think about at least.

And, finally, pics are ALWAYS awesome.

[ericheath]

Lots run the forks an inch up in the triple trees to lower the front. Loosen six pinch bolts and slide the bike down on the tubes. I think it pays to measure using calipers and get the heights exactly the same. Off a little bit can result in low speed wobble.

Be cautious in the turns for a while to ensure nothing will drag besides foot pegs.

Springs lose their strength over time. Ride it and see, but new Progressive fork springs are about$90. You just remove your fork caps, pull the old ones out and slide the new ones in. I can’t remember if the 1200 shocks had springs and air. Progressive also sells springs for them, but by the time you buy the springs and the associated seals and bushings, it’s almost as cheap to buy a set of aftermarket shocks. I need to buy some 1100 and I’m pretty sure it’s cheaper to just buy a new set. Mother Honda wants a good chunk for the seals and bushings.

[robin1731]

snip...…......Lots run the forks an inch up in the triple trees to lower the front. Loosen six pinch bolts and slide the bike down on the tubes. I think it pays to measure using calipers and get the heights exactly the same. Off a little bit can result in low speed wobble.

If you loosen all 6 bolts at the same time be sure the bike is on the center stand and you have some support under the engine. If not when you loosen all the bolts the forks can slide up into the triple until they either hit the bottom or the engine/frame hit the ground. Or maybe the front fender hits the radiator. Use caution.

.

[GW Hobo]

3. the wiring. The wiring on these things was UGLY. I'm going to start from scratch here and go for a more modern wiring set up. any recommendations here?

Welcome! I'm in the process of rebuilding a 1982 GL1100 and intend to tackle the wiring in the next month if I can get her mocked up. (FYI I'll be using progressive shocks in the back, putting on Yamaha R1 forks on front).

Wiring-wise, I'm buying the motogadget m-unit blue and some of its options (like the m-lock, m-blaze, and m-button). It's pricey but Revival Cycles in Austin, TX sells the motogadget line of products and have put a ton of effort into YouTube videos that show installation. And I think they look great for electrical customization builds. All LED, minimal wiring, keyless start using your cell phone that also logs maintenance issues based on mileage, no fuses (all digital) -- it's pretty cool if you can afford it. My build is here: https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 30&t=63100

There are several harness options offered online, from used 1200 harnesses that are bare bones to newer options. For example, Sparck Moto offers a semi-custom solution for my 1100 and had some great customer service via email that addressed wiring issues for the Honda GL1100 with a view toward the impact of my using the R1 hand controls and lighting set up. So it may be worth it to consider first how much customization you're doing. If you're not doing much and are going to use existing hand controls, etc, then Sparck Moto and places like them may be an option. Wholesale wiring jobs using customized hand controls may be trickier. In this latter case, motogadget-type solutions may be helpful.

Another consideration with motogadget-type solutions is that since it's all digital, you can get rid of some of the crap in your harness, like light relays and fuse boxes, especially if you’re using motogadget accessories.

Speedos, sensors, the wiring of lights using original equipment vs. new/modern controls/equipment means putting some thought into wiring, but there are solutions. I'm still working on an instrument cluster that looks good and does what I want (ie: has the sensors I want). I’ve also seen café builds that forgo the speedo for a GPS speedo. They also forgo sensor wiring like engine temp, neutral switch, and rear shock air pressure switch (which you'll be ditching anyway). You can really clean up your harness if you’re looking for a café, minimalistic look. As my buddy says, if it doesn’t make it go faster, get rid of it. My $.02 - PM me if you’d like to talk more offline. Good luck!

Hobo

[heath1066]

I second the M-Unit, I just finished a M-unit splice in on my 84 standard, and it is a dream... The winter will be dedicated to making the harness real pretty, but the M-Unit is working like a charm.

[Easter]

Here is a shot of my 1200 Interstate with a modified stock seat. Also I like the M-unit (not used on this bike but another) but it is costly.

[CYBORG]

Great looking bike

[Rat]

What’s happening with that left side cover ?

Gord

[Easter]

Probably an optical illusion. Just the stock Interstate cover.