Oh Man - Here We Go Again

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Okay, so, you might have seen my previous posts wondering about the differences between the '78 and '79 GL1000's...and I'll tell you why...

So I'm wandering through the Craigslist ads (Bad Idea, I know) and came across THIS beauty - a 1978 GL1000!
1978 GL1000 Where I Found Her I by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

A phone call or two, and THIS happened - (yes, that's my truck...)
DSCN1927 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

So for better or for worse, I have picked up ANOTHER GL1000! ( I might call this one 'Peanuts', because it's True - You Can't Have Just One!).

The PO said it's been languishing behind his house for about ten years, but it's all there. Just over 88K on the clock; and a KEY, too!
DSCN1929 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr
Triage shows nice orange coolant, so I hope that bears out...the rust isn't too bad, and should be remedied with a Brillo pad; as far as the muffler ends go, I know I can't save the chrome there, so actually I was thinking about just shooting them with Hi-Temp black grill paint; that might actually look pretty good, too.


Isn't it Amazing how you can talk yourself into something...? To be fair, it only cost me $350, and I had a little 'windfall' so was able to put that money back into my account - so my total out-of-pocket expense so far has been about twenty bucks. (I mean, What Would YOU Have Done...??;)

SO anyway - I got her home and stripped her down yesterday, and she looks a Heckofalot better:
DSCN1957 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

This is interesting though - Check out these air shocks...were these an Add-On or anything, or did the PO just change them out...?
DSCN1933 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

This one was 'flat', and before I figured out the 'secret' I had a helluva time trying to lift her onto the centerstand - this bike is heavier than my '75. I put some air into it and Up she went! Made it a lot easier to get her on the stand.
DSCN1934 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr


I was worried about what she looked like inside, but was pleasantly surprised...
DSCN1954 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

It actually doesn't look too bad -
DSCN1953 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

The battery of course was Toast...
DSCN1946 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

But what is that curved piece there...foot rest mount...?
DSCN1943 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

Pretty unique place for a fuse box...(Does the '78 have a tool tray?)…
DSCN1931 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

Speaking of wiring...does anything look out of sorts here...?
DSCN1951 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

The points look kind of munched..
DSCN1955 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

And I also found a rubber covering over the headlight bucket, but for some reason Flickr won't let me copy it...she has about a quarter tank of bad gas in there, but it's still sloshing around - it's not solidified or gunked up, so at least that's not too bad...no title either, but that's no problem.

Anyway, today is Cleaning Day, so I'm going to hose her off and get her up on the Slab and start seeing what's what...
And Yes, I know -"Change Your Belts"!

Oh, Man - Here We Go Again!

[Liam]

Amazing how much better it looks once you take off all the aftermarket stuff, which in my view are generally the parts that age worst. That tailpipe on the exhaust muffler is an add on too. If you took them off the exhaust system loses most of the rust.

In terms of what would I have done regarding the 20 bucks, well, the same as you.
Enjoy your day cleaning.

[Whiskerfish]

There was a black rubber almost like a tupperwear lid that was put over the headlight bucket when you removed the bulb to install the Vetter. Supposed to keep the electrics in there dry I guess. Yes there should be a tool tray there. the fuse box should hang from a rubber strap at the front of that compartment. Looks like the inspection sticker is from 03? Closer to 20 years than 10. Have you rotated the engine yet?

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Yeah, I noticed the tail-pipe - see the little screws...? So the original tail-pipe end may be underneath that...? (I haven't checked yet...).

And No, I haven't rotated the engine yet - so there might still be a surprise in there...but it rolls fine. And even if there Is a problem, that's cool too because I kind of want to take one apart just to do it...but of course if it Ain't Broke I'm not going to 'fix' it!

Anything with this year to keep an eye out for?

[pidjones]

>>Anything with this year to keep an eye out for?<<
Not really. Just make sure the frame is not rotted out. Setting out in the weather is hard on them, because the drain holes rapidly get plugged and water remains inside the lower frame rails. I'd plan on pulling the engine, stripping the frame and repainting, full carb rebuild, tank cleaning, full brake system rebuild, pull all electrical connectors and clean/rebuild. And as with all - first change the belts! The "three yellow wire" fix of your choice, new tires, doing something with the seat (the aftermarket K&Q can be carved, refoamed with carpet padding, and recovered with a new cover), pulling the fairing and bag mounts then finding headlight and fittings to go in the old bucket. Yep, a real bargain. Plan on putting another $1000 to $1500 into it.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Gosh, is that all...?

"Plan on putting another $1000 to $1500 into it." I hear ya...

Well-as Johnny Cash says - "one piece at a time."

[Sidecar Bob]

There was a black rubber almost like a tupperwear lid that was put over the headlight bucket when you removed the bulb to install the Vetter. Supposed to keep the electrics in there dry I guess.

They supplied the cover for the headlight bucket because the original headlight & ring moved to the fairing.

BTW, in case you haven't noticed the fairing's wiring plugs into the bike's original wiring so you should be able to remove it without cutting any wires.

[pidjones]

There was a black rubber almost like a tupperwear lid that was put over the headlight bucket when you removed the bulb to install the Vetter. Supposed to keep the electrics in there dry I guess.

They supplied the cover for the headlight bucket because the original headlight & ring moved to the fairing.

BTW, in case you haven't noticed the fairing's wiring plugs into the bike's original wiring so you should be able to remove it without cutting any wires.

Every Veter have removed was spliced in with those gawd-awful Scotchlok connectors.

[Sidecar Bob]

IDCs aren't really splices. You can remove them and patch the insulation with Liquid Electric Tape.

[Liam]

I know that technically splicing refers to end to end connection of 2 segments of rope or cable (traditionally by intertwining the strands at each end) but those scotchlock things are called splices by many. Probably initially by the same person that started to call bevel gearboxes pumpkins or differentials. They are classified also as connectors but in my view they barely qualify. Strangely enough, IDC connectors are widely used elsewhere, for Telephone cable marshalling and also the RJ45 connectors used for Cat5,6,7 etc used worldwide for network cabling. In these applications the connections are reliable.

[CYBORG]

I know that technically splicing refers to end to end connection of 2 segments of rope or cable (traditionally by intertwining the strands at each end) but those scotchlock things are called splices by many. Probably initially by the same person that started to call bevel gearboxes pumpkins or differentials. They are classified also as connectors but in my view they barely qualify. Strangely enough, IDC connectors are widely used elsewhere, for Telephone cable marshalling and also the RJ45 connectors used for Cat5,6,7 etc used worldwide for network cabling. In these applications the connections are reliable.

Ihave used. in a work environment , those "good ones". They are nothing like the ones most people find on their bikes. For one thing, when crimped, they expel a sealant into the joint. But I do agree, the best type of connection is done with end to end . inter woven connections that are soldered . Or at least a rat tail splice, that is soldered. (and that how I do it)

[Sidecar Bob]

All I meant was that IDCs are temporary and splices are usually more permanent. And that (unless the conductor is badly corroded) IDCs can be reversed so cutting the wires should not be necessary.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

I've started the process of taking apart and cleaning the bike, but came across this on the oil level window - what is this for?
DSCN1968 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

My '75 doesn't have that, and I can't figure out why there would be a flat head screw (??) in the middle of the window...

It actually doesn't look too bad inside - note the original (?) Honda belts (and Yes, I have some Gates T274 replacements on the way...).
DSCN1966 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

The engine turns over by hand, which is good, and the coolant looked fresh when I emptied it, there was no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil...the brake reservoirs were dry and empty though, and I cringe at how expensive the brakes are going to be to rebuild..."Buy the ticket, take the ride," as Hunter Thompson says...

[ritalz]

The flat head screw is sort of wiper blade for the inside of the sight glass. Designed to clean the glass from the inside to assist you in checking the oil level.

[Sidecar Bob]

That slot head screw is for the sight glass wiper. When you turn it a little windshield wiper like arm smears the crud on the inside of the glass.

BTW: A flat head screw looks like this