remove rear break sticking

Post your "How To", or share tips and tricks about maintenance related to four cylinder Wings. Only registered users can read this forum.

Moderators: Whiskerfish, Forum Moderators

User avatar
peteybug
Silver Member
Silver Member
Posts: 787
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 2:20 pm
Location: northern new york

remove rear break sticking

Post #1 by peteybug » Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:47 pm

This was done on a stripped frame for clarity. Tools needed. Drill, drillbit 13/64, TAP 1/4-28, oil, rapidtap fluid, 1/4 grease fitting (zert) and sandpaper. First you have to remove rear break pedal from bike. You have to remove a small cotterkey and a large washer to remove pedal(no pic sorry) You can remove pedal from master cylinder(cotterpin & and small pin) or you can leave it as is and pull cylinder and all. Its up to you. When you get it off you will notice shaft has a groove.

Image

this is area where you will want grease fitting. put a mark on peddle where groove is.

Image

I have found that putting grease fitting on the bottom of the peddle makes it easier to get at. Now set up your 13/64 drill bit in your drill and drill hole in pedal tube make sure to use oil so bit stays lubed. Next take your 1/4-28 tap and tap out.

Image

Image

Now you have threads to screw in fitting. Take emerypaper or sand paper clean out hole and make smooth. Do the same to shaft. Take grease fitting and washer and screw in.

Image

Image

The reason I used 2 washers was because fitting sticks in to far so pedal will not go back on without it. Or you can put pedal on then use just the fitting. Now put back on bike and put break unit back together. Now sock some grease to it and you should have no more problem with sticky pedal. You will notice I drilled hole on top of this pedal :oops: had to go get a 90degree fitting.
love new ideas for old wing's. AS I have three and am always working on them

ImageImageImage

User avatar
Whiskerfish
President
President
Posts: 29369
Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:34 pm
My Album: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/v/wingmans/whiskerfish/
Location: Norfolk Va

Post #2 by Whiskerfish » Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:53 pm

Good stuff!!!

On another subject I had a second fuel pump crap out on me today. All your parts are laid out on the bench for in the morning :-D :-D
The Wounds of Honor are self inflicted (Last Knights)
1978/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!

User avatar
peteybug
Silver Member
Silver Member
Posts: 787
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 2:20 pm
Location: northern new york

Post #3 by peteybug » Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:56 pm

Good luck :lol: I am having great success with the new spring. Running low on craped out pumps to rebuild.
love new ideas for old wing's. AS I have three and am always working on them



ImageImageImage

User avatar
FirstYearDeek
True Blue Steel Biker
True Blue Steel Biker
Posts: 2543
Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2008 4:41 pm
Location: Terre Haute, Indiana

Post #4 by FirstYearDeek » Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:19 pm

Awesome! Way faster than pulling it off, packing it and re-attaching it.

-Deek
"Eat, drink and be merry. For tomorrow we die."

1975 GL 1000 (First Year) under the knife; soon to be a cafe' inspired "Boss" of a freedom machine.

User avatar
WingerDave
Silver Member
Silver Member
Posts: 644
Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 7:22 am
My Album: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/v/wingmans/album225/
Location: The Netherlands

Post #5 by WingerDave » Wed Feb 11, 2009 10:19 am

Damn......... there's that Rapid Tap again !!!! :-D

Dave.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

'80-'81 GL 1100 Hybrid Vetter Interstate 90K km
1989 GL1500 58K mls

Previous bikes

1973 Suzuki GT 500
1975 BMW R60/6
1982 Suzuki GS 550
1980 GL1100 (frame went to current bike, rest parted out)
1983 GL1100 Interstate

User avatar
Roady
Member Relations &_Graphics
Member Relations &_Graphics
Posts: 11837
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 2:35 pm
Location: Belleville, IL

Post #6 by Roady » Fri Feb 13, 2009 12:22 am

Great. This is linked on ShopTalk now.

Thanks, peteybug!

User avatar
kitbutterfield
Silver Member
Silver Member
Posts: 511
Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2009 5:39 pm

Post #7 by kitbutterfield » Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:00 am

NOTE:
Anyone doing this modification should probably consider one thing, before drilling...
Look at where your large shaft spring seats.
Mark your hole location outside of that area, while still allowing grease to penetrate the shaft cutout area.

I learned this lesson, the hard way.
I had to fill my first hole with marine epoxy & drill in a new location.

Live...Make mistakes...Learn...CYA.
:-D
KB
1976 GL1000 Nudewing

User avatar
Miky-Biky
Cast Iron Member
Cast Iron Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:56 am
Location: Belgium

Post #8 by Miky-Biky » Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:25 am

Thanks for sharing this modification :idea:

Grtzz, Miky.
There are two types of motorcyclists, those who fell and others who are yet to fall.
Apologize for my Google english!
1978 Honda GL1000 K2
1997 BMW R1100RT

rtcadman
Tin Member
Tin Member
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 6:15 pm
Location: Chittenango N. Y.

Re: remove rear break sticking

Post #9 by rtcadman » Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:48 pm

I'm having trouble getting rear :x :x brake pedal off the pin. It was set up when I bought the bike. I've slowly been working it back and forth - with a hammer, sprayed WD-40. Today I even heated it w/ propane torch and got out the pickle fork. It is still there! Am I missing something?
Rick

User avatar
Whiskerfish
President
President
Posts: 29369
Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:34 pm
My Album: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/v/wingmans/whiskerfish/
Location: Norfolk Va

Re: remove rear break sticking

Post #10 by Whiskerfish » Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:10 pm

There is a cotter Key and a large washer that have to be removed before it will slide off the shaft
The Wounds of Honor are self inflicted (Last Knights)
1978/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!

User avatar
Miky-Biky
Cast Iron Member
Cast Iron Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:56 am
Location: Belgium

Re: remove rear break sticking

Post #11 by Miky-Biky » Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:23 pm

Whiskerfish has it right, only the cotter key, a washer and a pile of rust keep the pedal in place. If you wish to make this modification by Peteybug, watch out where you drill the hole, leave space for the spring!

Image

Grtzz, M.
There are two types of motorcyclists, those who fell and others who are yet to fall.
Apologize for my Google english!
1978 Honda GL1000 K2
1997 BMW R1100RT

rtcadman
Tin Member
Tin Member
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 6:15 pm
Location: Chittenango N. Y.

Re: remove rear break sticking

Post #12 by rtcadman » Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:01 pm

Thanks for the replies. I had already removed washer, cotter pin, and spring. I guess it is just "set up". My next step might be a torch!! I'm getting the frame powder coated Sat.
Rick

User avatar
Whiskerfish
President
President
Posts: 29369
Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:34 pm
My Album: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/v/wingmans/whiskerfish/
Location: Norfolk Va

Re: remove rear break sticking

Post #13 by Whiskerfish » Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:58 am

Soak it with penetrate and work it. Eventually it should slide off.
The Wounds of Honor are self inflicted (Last Knights)
1978/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!

rtcadman
Tin Member
Tin Member
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 6:15 pm
Location: Chittenango N. Y.

Re: remove rear break sticking

Post #14 by rtcadman » Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:05 pm

It gave in to the up & down wrench - hammer!!
Thanks.
Rick


Return to “How To 4-Wings (Tutorials Only)”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests